I hear what you’re saying about slowing down consumption. It’s one of the things I like about making my own clothes. I’ve just finished a suit that’s taken me nearly three months and it feels very meaningful because of all the time.
Time spent with clothes. I can see how that’s what slow consumption is about. There have been times in my life that I have loved something for a long time (an amazing pair of shoes, a great jacket) and as I have worn them over and over again, developed a relationship with them. And of course they motivated me to reinvent multiple ways to wear them, not because I was doing some Instagram “challenge” but because organically I just did so. I am trying to understand how this is different from a seemingly similar getting dressed issue that instead I (and i think many) view as a defect. That is, a closet stuffed with “options” and you wear the same thing over and over which you find unsatisfying and depressing. In theory these should be the same conditions but in practice… Is that in the first situation you do it by deliberate choice because you fall in love with the object and develop a relationship? Whereas in the second situation, it’s a defensive reaction to overwhelming consumption? As usual Tiia, you have given me something to think about!
"Whereas in the second situation, it’s a defensive reaction to overwhelming consumption" -- yes, I think this is it. It seems to me that the second situation doesn't come from a place of creativity, but from guilt, either consciously or subconsciously. We see the waste, and we try to make it pretty. No wonder it's not uplifting!
It's always lovely to open Substack and see you posted! There's always something to fascinate me (the knowledge on vintage) and some food for thought - the money issue. I am also poor, and since I have always been poor I lost the weight of the word some time ago -when I REALLY realized that it's most of us, by a lot.. And to this point I have to say that, although I agree with you and everyone should be paid for their work, it doesn't sit right with me when people call comunity to something that one needs to pay for, namely substacks where all posts are paywalled. This is a service, not a community, and to that I don't subscribe.
I do think a nice model is when creators have some level of free content and then another more in-depth level of paid content. That allows everyone to participate in the conversation but still lets creators generate income from those who want/are able to invest more...
I love the shirt studs, what a beautiful find, and all the more charming because they're mismatched! I've been half heartedly looking for studs but yet to find something I like, and I noticed that on my tuxedo shirt, the placket isn't fully sewn down and I can actually pull layers apart...not sure if this is normal but I'm still debating whether I should sew everything down or just always wear it with shirt studs (which keep the layers together.) Am I making sense?
Thank you for speaking so honestly about money! I too think that creators should be compensated for their work, but it does mean there are limits as to how much I can engage with what they write behind paywalls. I appreciate that some creators keep their chats for all subscribers (not just paid ones) so that also creates a sense of community for me.
Thanks Lin! Hmm, I'm not sure if I quite understand what you mean by the placket not being sewn down. Send me a picture on IG, maybe? I'll give you my two cents if you like!
Thank you for the encouragement re: money talk. It felt like a really tough topic to even mention! I haven't engaged with the chats on Substack (oh, my exploding screen time!), but that sounds like a good option to engage in conversations.
We're not alone! I see a lot of Notes on Substack about paywalls, and it's not an easy topic. I understand both sides, but for me it's the exclusion from conversations that stings the most.
I love the collector in you, Tiia! And here you are adding another treasured item to your collection of vintage garments. How cool that you've decided to actually give it a chance as an actual item to wear. An item to be worn by the current you.
Have you considered reaching out to the brand itself and asking them about the age of that shirt? I can only imagine they have extensive archives and have documented every single collection. Please let us know if you decide to contact Stenstöms and especially if they take the time to answer your email.
Thanks Ewelina! I hadn't thought about contacting Stenströms! I found some of their old logos on their website and I read about the history of the company, but it didn't occur to me to ask them directly. I might do that, although I'm pretty sure they have more pressing issues to deal with than my ancient shirt! :D Might be worth a try, anyway!
I think the shirt looks great without a collar - especially with the vest having lapels. And perhaps a scattering of additional studs or small brooches over the stains as well as as few others for balance?
And I write this wearing a 30+ year old sweater that I have been wearing on repeat for 30+ winters. It will still draw compliments when I go out (and it doesn’t matter if it doesn’t, I am comfortable and happy and am color palleting with my Welsh Terrier🙃).
I'm really excited to see what you do with the shirt! perhaps you could sew a collar for it - it seems like a daunting task but not really that difficult once you find a pattern, as long as you have the basic straight stitch abilities I think you could do it! I love the mismatched studs, I think it actually looks perfect and made me think about whether I could sew some mismatched buttons on some of my shirts or bulky cardigans for a bit of interest...
anyway I'm particularly interested in what you had to say about the experience of going from paid subscriptions to free and feeling like an outsider. I started using substack after I burnt out badly from my corporate design job and took a minimum wage hospitality job part time instead. substack has been a wonderful way to stay connected to my fashion roots especially when I can't wear a lot of my delicate or designer pieces to work now, but I have always felt like the outsider, infringing on the "real" community who is capable of paying for a monthly or yearly subscription. and of course I feel the same way as you, although I am open to discussing my life difficulties with almost anyone, I absolutely can't stand the thought of asking for special treatment like a free subscription because of my situation. and even if I could get it, for many of these newsletters the paid version is full of purchasing recommendations which I also can't afford - I allow myself to buy one new piece at the op shop monthly if I haven't had any other major expenditures that month, the recommendations of someone who is swimming in the privilege of buying brand new and designer or even second hand designer are completely foreign to me. which is not to say that I resent these people their privilege - it is just a fact that I have learned to accept that I will never be part of that fabled echelon because I do not have the systemic foundation around me to allow it. but it does feel like it creates an unreachable divide, that we cannot even sustain a conversation between the two groups because we are located on the wrong side of the paywall as though we must all stay with our "own kind" so as not to upset the delicate balance where everyone pretends that other people too dissimilar to them don't exist. and then none of us learn from each other :(
Hi Katarina! I'm sorry it took me so long to reply, and thank you so much for sharing your experience and being so open.
I know exactly what you mean re: feeling like you're in this weird limbo, being on the outside looking in, recognizing it as a cold fact, but at the same time you're trying to not seem too resentful (because that will make you look jealous of other people's success, and we know that's not to problem here) and also trying to figure out why _you_ should be the one who's understanding of this chasm between us and them, that we all know exists, and not the ones on the other side of the divide. It's a strange place to be.
as a sporadic-at-best user of any social media including substack, don't ever apologise for taking a while to respond to a comment (especially an essay length like mine lol) it's ok to not always be connected to the online space!! I'm happy you were out there living your life!!
I do hope though that through us having conversations like these will lead to people from both sides of the wealth divide reaching out to perhaps connect with the "other side" a little more :)
Tiia, I love that you’re looking to make that shirt/vest work for you! The mismatched studs are wonderful, and I love the idea of embroidery or brooches over the stains. I recently bought a skirt and did not examine it closely enough to spot the moth-holes, but instead of binning it, I want to make it work with some creative modifications. Thanks for the inspiration!💕
Moth holes are so annoying! I'm sorry about the skirt you bought, and I hope that you can figure out how to mend the holes. I recently did some visible mending on a jacket that had fur beetle holes. I had to get pretty creative, but the end result isn't too bad!
I hear what you’re saying about slowing down consumption. It’s one of the things I like about making my own clothes. I’ve just finished a suit that’s taken me nearly three months and it feels very meaningful because of all the time.
Wow, I can imagine! I'm still only able to mend my clothes, but maybe one day I can make them from scratch, too!
Time spent with clothes. I can see how that’s what slow consumption is about. There have been times in my life that I have loved something for a long time (an amazing pair of shoes, a great jacket) and as I have worn them over and over again, developed a relationship with them. And of course they motivated me to reinvent multiple ways to wear them, not because I was doing some Instagram “challenge” but because organically I just did so. I am trying to understand how this is different from a seemingly similar getting dressed issue that instead I (and i think many) view as a defect. That is, a closet stuffed with “options” and you wear the same thing over and over which you find unsatisfying and depressing. In theory these should be the same conditions but in practice… Is that in the first situation you do it by deliberate choice because you fall in love with the object and develop a relationship? Whereas in the second situation, it’s a defensive reaction to overwhelming consumption? As usual Tiia, you have given me something to think about!
"Whereas in the second situation, it’s a defensive reaction to overwhelming consumption" -- yes, I think this is it. It seems to me that the second situation doesn't come from a place of creativity, but from guilt, either consciously or subconsciously. We see the waste, and we try to make it pretty. No wonder it's not uplifting!
It's always lovely to open Substack and see you posted! There's always something to fascinate me (the knowledge on vintage) and some food for thought - the money issue. I am also poor, and since I have always been poor I lost the weight of the word some time ago -when I REALLY realized that it's most of us, by a lot.. And to this point I have to say that, although I agree with you and everyone should be paid for their work, it doesn't sit right with me when people call comunity to something that one needs to pay for, namely substacks where all posts are paywalled. This is a service, not a community, and to that I don't subscribe.
Community vs service -- that's an important distinction, and an apt one, I think. Thank you for sharing your wisdom, and for being here!
I do think a nice model is when creators have some level of free content and then another more in-depth level of paid content. That allows everyone to participate in the conversation but still lets creators generate income from those who want/are able to invest more...
Agreed. It's a nice gesture to allow everyone to take part, in one way or another.
I love the shirt studs, what a beautiful find, and all the more charming because they're mismatched! I've been half heartedly looking for studs but yet to find something I like, and I noticed that on my tuxedo shirt, the placket isn't fully sewn down and I can actually pull layers apart...not sure if this is normal but I'm still debating whether I should sew everything down or just always wear it with shirt studs (which keep the layers together.) Am I making sense?
Thank you for speaking so honestly about money! I too think that creators should be compensated for their work, but it does mean there are limits as to how much I can engage with what they write behind paywalls. I appreciate that some creators keep their chats for all subscribers (not just paid ones) so that also creates a sense of community for me.
Thanks Lin! Hmm, I'm not sure if I quite understand what you mean by the placket not being sewn down. Send me a picture on IG, maybe? I'll give you my two cents if you like!
Thank you for the encouragement re: money talk. It felt like a really tough topic to even mention! I haven't engaged with the chats on Substack (oh, my exploding screen time!), but that sounds like a good option to engage in conversations.
Glad you talked about money. I do feel cut off from many conversations because of paywalls.
We're not alone! I see a lot of Notes on Substack about paywalls, and it's not an easy topic. I understand both sides, but for me it's the exclusion from conversations that stings the most.
I love the collector in you, Tiia! And here you are adding another treasured item to your collection of vintage garments. How cool that you've decided to actually give it a chance as an actual item to wear. An item to be worn by the current you.
Have you considered reaching out to the brand itself and asking them about the age of that shirt? I can only imagine they have extensive archives and have documented every single collection. Please let us know if you decide to contact Stenstöms and especially if they take the time to answer your email.
Thanks Ewelina! I hadn't thought about contacting Stenströms! I found some of their old logos on their website and I read about the history of the company, but it didn't occur to me to ask them directly. I might do that, although I'm pretty sure they have more pressing issues to deal with than my ancient shirt! :D Might be worth a try, anyway!
I think the shirt looks great without a collar - especially with the vest having lapels. And perhaps a scattering of additional studs or small brooches over the stains as well as as few others for balance?
And I write this wearing a 30+ year old sweater that I have been wearing on repeat for 30+ winters. It will still draw compliments when I go out (and it doesn’t matter if it doesn’t, I am comfortable and happy and am color palleting with my Welsh Terrier🙃).
I like your idea of brooches over the stains -- thank you!
And I looooove that you're wearing a sweater you've had for over 30 years. That's some real love and commitment!!
I'm really excited to see what you do with the shirt! perhaps you could sew a collar for it - it seems like a daunting task but not really that difficult once you find a pattern, as long as you have the basic straight stitch abilities I think you could do it! I love the mismatched studs, I think it actually looks perfect and made me think about whether I could sew some mismatched buttons on some of my shirts or bulky cardigans for a bit of interest...
anyway I'm particularly interested in what you had to say about the experience of going from paid subscriptions to free and feeling like an outsider. I started using substack after I burnt out badly from my corporate design job and took a minimum wage hospitality job part time instead. substack has been a wonderful way to stay connected to my fashion roots especially when I can't wear a lot of my delicate or designer pieces to work now, but I have always felt like the outsider, infringing on the "real" community who is capable of paying for a monthly or yearly subscription. and of course I feel the same way as you, although I am open to discussing my life difficulties with almost anyone, I absolutely can't stand the thought of asking for special treatment like a free subscription because of my situation. and even if I could get it, for many of these newsletters the paid version is full of purchasing recommendations which I also can't afford - I allow myself to buy one new piece at the op shop monthly if I haven't had any other major expenditures that month, the recommendations of someone who is swimming in the privilege of buying brand new and designer or even second hand designer are completely foreign to me. which is not to say that I resent these people their privilege - it is just a fact that I have learned to accept that I will never be part of that fabled echelon because I do not have the systemic foundation around me to allow it. but it does feel like it creates an unreachable divide, that we cannot even sustain a conversation between the two groups because we are located on the wrong side of the paywall as though we must all stay with our "own kind" so as not to upset the delicate balance where everyone pretends that other people too dissimilar to them don't exist. and then none of us learn from each other :(
Hi Katarina! I'm sorry it took me so long to reply, and thank you so much for sharing your experience and being so open.
I know exactly what you mean re: feeling like you're in this weird limbo, being on the outside looking in, recognizing it as a cold fact, but at the same time you're trying to not seem too resentful (because that will make you look jealous of other people's success, and we know that's not to problem here) and also trying to figure out why _you_ should be the one who's understanding of this chasm between us and them, that we all know exists, and not the ones on the other side of the divide. It's a strange place to be.
as a sporadic-at-best user of any social media including substack, don't ever apologise for taking a while to respond to a comment (especially an essay length like mine lol) it's ok to not always be connected to the online space!! I'm happy you were out there living your life!!
I do hope though that through us having conversations like these will lead to people from both sides of the wealth divide reaching out to perhaps connect with the "other side" a little more :)
Tiia, I love that you’re looking to make that shirt/vest work for you! The mismatched studs are wonderful, and I love the idea of embroidery or brooches over the stains. I recently bought a skirt and did not examine it closely enough to spot the moth-holes, but instead of binning it, I want to make it work with some creative modifications. Thanks for the inspiration!💕
Thanks Sheila!
Moth holes are so annoying! I'm sorry about the skirt you bought, and I hope that you can figure out how to mend the holes. I recently did some visible mending on a jacket that had fur beetle holes. I had to get pretty creative, but the end result isn't too bad!
I would love to see your jacket’s fix!💕
I will show it at some point, I'm sure!
I think my skirt is worth a shot at some kind of visible mending, better than tossing it, right?
Absolutely! It sounds like a nice skirt and it deserves a new life!
I love the later, gayer “Marple” too.
Hienoa avointa rahapuhetta!:) Kiitos ajatuksia herättäneestä tekstistä.