Your post makes me think of this notion (highly enabled by the industry) that "men have (style) uniforms, while women have Fashion." The rate of change in men's fashion happens at a glacial pace (if at all, for some pieces) compared to the frenetic pace of women's RTW in the modern fashion age. So it's not surprising that many women who care to build a wardrobe of more enduring pieces end up leaning on many menswear-inflected, tailored pieces to anchor their style.
Personally, I love working in athleisure/sporty elements in my wardrobe but that's because it's a way to incorporate certain other aspects of my life I love (ie: I enjoy fitness, and some sports) into my style. Choosing elements that add 'friction' is a fine personal style strategy, but those elements, as you say, need to actually meaningfully resonate for you on a personal level. Otherwise it just becomes a chaotic grab-bag of dissociative elements instead of a cohesive personal style.
This: "men have (style) uniforms, while women have Fashion." This, this, this. Menswear really does change very, very slowly. It must be easier to keep up with, and also probably easier to write about. I was trying to imagine what an ideal essay on, say, buying a dress would look like, in the genre that Bruce Boyer excels at. There'd be so much ground to cover to even scratch the surface! The items typically associated with menswear, with all of their staying power and long history, should be easier to dissect and analyze compared to the ever-changing, constantly evolving womenswear. I think it sucks though! Women, too, need better information in order to make good decisions when we buy our clothes.
It makes perfect sense that you incorporate athleisure into your personal style. I love that. It's a part of you, so it works for you. Win-win!
I've written about the quality issue re women's fashion periodically over the years on my old blog, and honestly the consensus, every time, is that it's a mess out there.
Thank you thank you for the meaty piece; as the best writing does, you provoke so much thought.
At 53, I feel I am JUST figuring out a style that's instinctive to me. I use a lot of crutches and formulas and sayings and readings to spur what I lack naturally ... but more and more, I know when it feels good or doesn't and how to remedy that for myself. More and more that is a physical, body feeling; it's that powerful and true. A full body yes and generally a pesky unignorable little no, like a pebble in a shoe.
I will say that there's something much worse for me than they way women's style gets discussed versus men's. And worse than the feeling of ignoring our inner loves under the influence of a persuasive whatever/whoever of the moment. And that is the point you get at about how style world seems unable to have a discussion without judgement.
I think about my niece making herself a snack as a few of us looked on, I think her brother who was appalled by the glop of it all. And her saying "don't yuck my yum."
That's the part that kills me. Why are we yucking each other's yum? I love Subrina's writing too and am in awe of her knowledge but I had to unsubscribe because of the "I know betterness" of it, the "this is bad; this is good" sensibility inherent in the title "Are you wearing that?" -- it all distracted me from her endless well of knowledge. I feel style is subjective. That there is no ascertainable "good" or "bad." We are compelled to ascribe these terms and to "other" -- often out of some kind of fear or insecurity. Even this idea that "knowing your inherent self" = style. Why is being fixed more desirable than evolving?
This notion of hating sportswear and the memories it recalls is so very relatable. I still look back at points in my growing up life when I could easily have been more kind. More myself. The best part of adulthood is a grownup landscape of friendships that values different things -- and my ability to decide I'll tolerate nothing less. Fashion is so much, and for me it's solace and escape and joy ... as you shed sportswear, what I feel growing in my "style world" is a constant shedding of those who just can't refrain from yucking each others' yum, those who can't seem to add to a discourse meaningfully without first whipping a dodgeball, hard, across the gymnasium.
Thank you for giving me so much to think about, as you always do, Rachel!
Full body yes -- yes! It's like with good friends or partners. When you know, you know. At that point, it doesn't matter what anyone else says, you can go with your gut because you know it's right.
The yucking on the yum issue: I agree we should be able to voice our opinions without being overly mean or snarky. We should be able to formulate our arguments with politeness, without putting ourselves on a pedestal at the expense of others. We're grown-ups, after all! I guess the fashion industry is known for its yuckers. Karl Lagerfeld comes to mind. He went on saying awful things for decades about other people and it was just something that the fashion industry accepted. It was on brand, which is really disturbing. I honestly don't know why the fashion world is like this. I'm still trying to figure it out. I applaud you for standing up for what's right for you and establishing your boundaries.
I agree that there are a lot of aspects of style that are subjective. What looks and feels "good" is most certainly subjective. Things like garment and textile quality, construction and intended fit are not subjective though, and wish it was easier to find information about these things in womenswear style discourse! For example: it really bothers me when some very popular style influencers talk about garment quality on the basis of the material composition tag, like "it's 100% wool so it's great quality / value for money". But there are so many different types of 100% wool out there! Some of it is of sublime quality and some of it is total garbage, but if you don't know the difference, you just don't know. I don't want to sound like I'm gate-keeping because I do believe everyone should have the freedom to discuss these things, but some of these topics are complicated, they require expertise, and a lot of people simply don't have the knowledge to back up their claims. Not always, there are exceptions of course. But I digress. Overall I agree that there are an awful lot of things about the world of style that are subjective and up for grabs for anyone who wants to tackle them!
I respect anyone's decision to establish their boundaries. It's tough out there, and if someone's rhetoric is not acceptable to you, then it's always better to opt out.
Some weeks ago I felt very triggered by something that Subrina said in her Notes, and I got really angry and considered unsubscribing. Then I thought long and hard about what she had said and realized that she had been right. I eventually reached out to her and it turns out that she's a lovely person and I've had some very fruitful conversations with her since. She is opinionated, that's for sure, and I get that it rubs people the wrong way, just like Amy, Rachel Tashjian, Eugene Rabkin, and other opinionated people who sometimes come off as snarky, do.
I've been thinking about this topic a lot, meaning: style that exists within a logical and consistent framework specific to -a person-, not a framework dictated by a designer or anyone else.
My style is absolutely consistent, and has been since the late 80s. I rotate different silhouettes in and out, and pay attention to trends (I sample the things that work, only), but I'm not ruled by them.
I also followed Amy Smilovic for a bit, during the pandemic. I like that she's figured out her own framework, and has exposed it as the logic that drives her work for Tibi. Like you, I didn't find that her framework was my framework. The "three words" thing doesn't work for me at all, and "chill" means something quite different to me than it does to her (and forget "friction," I prefer "harmony"). And that's fine.
There's real strength in figuring out what your own style is and what works for you. I believe that it's within that framework that you're able to take on trends and change silhouettes. It just makes sense! I congratulate you for having found your style a long time ago. What a treasure that must be! I can only imagine the possibilities, but maybe I'll get there, too, one day.
I’m a relatively recent lurker in your wonderful space and relatively new to 2020s era style and fashion platforms/writing/influencing (since discovering an urge to rediscover my personal style last year, which had been lost somewhere in the convenience of athleisure fabrics while living in the tropics). You articulate a lot of question marks that have been on my mind over the last few months, like why is Tibi style class treated as gospel when I feel some of what is said is pretty judgmental and condescending 🫣 (she says in trepidation). Meanwhile the clothes are predominantly highly priced synthetic blends, and while there is so much written about quality, no one mentions this? Not to yuck on Tibi, I guess what your writing made me realize is that following all this “informed” fashion discourse has maybe driven me away from my own style as well. Again, thank you for this and your always frank writing, I really appreciate it.
Hello and welcome! I'm glad you're here and happy that you left a comment!
I've wondered about Tibi's textile choices myself. I've only ever seen older Tibi pieces in person so I have no idea how the newer clothes measure up to quality standards. The old ones I've seen in person were well made and the materials seemed nice (they were silk and cotton pieces). Sometimes using synthetics makes sense (desired feel, mood, texture) but I feel conflicted about the price point and the difficulty in deciphering odd made-up names they give to materials ('chalky drape' comes to mind -- I felt like I had to jump through hoops to find out what it was made of).
Even more disturbing to me is that in this day and age, the Tibi website has no information about the brand's sustainability practices or goals (or if they do, it's practically impossible to find them). Where are the clothes made? What types of factories? Who monitors these factories, do people get paid a living wage, are there certificates that prove this? Where are the textiles sourced? What type of carbon footprint do they have, are the materials traceable? So many questions!
Thank you for the warm welcome! I agree on the lack of information on sustainability practices - it especially seems out of sync for a brand that is so innovative in their direct communication with customers, and seems to be trying to project a “principled” ethos (I’m thinking of when Amy addresses the business side of fashion and encourages supporting local retailers).
On textiles - I’ve only recently bought my first Tibi item in their “crispy nylon” fabrication on sale and I wasn’t impressed, but I felt that my expectations were appropriately set to expect a synthetic fiber for a certain appearance. What bothers me is that they have fabrications with names like “tropical wool” that are over 50% polyester.
Maybe it’s the lack of choices women have, as you point out, that has us overlooking these things to have a brand speaking to us in a thoughtful way.
It's surprising to me that Tibi's "tropical wool" pieces are so polyester-heavy, I had no idea. I don't mind a small polyester content in wool, but over 50% is completely unnecessary.
Truly! Just popped back in here because this post and the comments has been living rent free in my mind for the last few days. I’ve rediscovered getting dressed without trying to think of “irony” and it feels good. Off to check out the other posts / writers you linked now!
Oh god this is a great piece of thinking and writing, thank you! So much resonated for me. Yep, hate most athleisure but have tried to incorporate it in my wardrobe to feel more modern, check. Traumatised by school PE, check. Have succumbed to persuasive fashion influences that do not actually reflect what I like, check. Discovered menswear writing and it’s a ‘where have you been all my life!’ moment. Hilariously, too much dedication to ‘Put This On’ style guides led to a further rabbit hole of buying into a style that was not actually me…. But we’re over that now and I’m back on board with accepting my fate as someone who just really really likes black architectural clothing and looking way more formal than most everyone around me. I’ve liked the look since I was teenager so i’m pretty sure it’s going to persist.
"accepting my fate as someone who just really really likes [...] looking way more formal than most everyone around me" -- check! Thank you for reading! I'm so glad this resonated with you.
Ahhh this was such a fantastic read - you have really become one of my favorite Substack authors in the last few months. Regularly think about your writing on the experience of wearing an antique skirt 💗💗 I am not a friction girl, I am glad for everyone else who it works (I pin the looks often hahah) but I feel so silly when I try it & inevitable switch back to the “frictionless” shoes or shirt every time hahaha. I love the tibi look but I have yet to purchase (secondhand bcs that’s ny budget) bcs I don’t love the materials they seem to use. I love natural fibers, they make my heart happy, and I can appreciate the technical construction and materials tibi celebrates and not have to wear/own them! This is the best part of aging for me, getting to know what is actually me underneath all the layers of outside influence.
Thank you so much for the lovely feedback! I really appreciate it!
"This is the best part of aging for me, getting to know what is actually me underneath all the layers of outside influence." -- I can relate. The older I get, the more I feel like I can let go of other people's expectations and what I should be wearing. I'm starting to trust myself that I know what works for me and that's enough. I still have a lot to learn though!
I haven't seen any recent Tibi pieces in person (I've only seen older ones that were quite nice) but looking at their website the fabric compositions puzzle me often. (Mixing silk and nylon just sounds so wrong to me.) I don't think all synthetics are unacceptable, but too much is too much.
Ah…I am so over athleisure! Like you, sports stuff repels me (PE was my worst subject in school too!) but I think it’s the widely adopted “uniform” nature of it that bugs me. In other words, if someone loved it and was rocking it, I would be like, cool! But because every third person is wearing leggings and a cropped top, I am like UGH, what happened to New York??
Menswear! I guess I am torn. On the one hand, I love the quality, the depth of detail, the timelessness. Love going with my husband to his tailor in Italy. On the other hand, Yikes…so few core options—shirt, pants, jacket. I know, I know, the details but still. I love that we can wear leopard, and metallics and dresses and skirts and pants, shirts, jackets. So I guess the trade off is for all that variety we get screwed on quality. Hmm. Why can’t we have some occasional variety but still have timelessness quality underpinning it all? I guess that is what Celine/Phoebe was/is about…? Others as well.
It’s funny to consider the blast radius of the Tibi style classes. I started following Amy years before the pandemic on Instagram and loved her style and thought she wrote the best fashion copy. Then when the classes started, it seemed like while they were infomercials, they were experimenting with many styling techniques which kept it fresh. But after that first season, I have not been able to watch one for so long. It’s like an ad in slow-mo….!
"the trade off is for all that variety we get screwed on quality" -- yes, I think that's it. Very unfortunate and not cool. It will be interesting to see what happens to menswear discourse as men's core options are widening and more adventurous styles become available for men. Derek Guy was a guest at Eugene Rabkin's podcast recently and he lamented the death of menswear style forums and the general state of men's fashion. So perhaps the great discourse of menswear is on its way out, which would be a real shame.
The success of Tibi Style Class and Allison Bornstein's three-word method really point out the dire need of a theoretical framework to discuss personal style. I think we all crave it, so that we can make sense of all of these options. The fashion/clothing industry is so over-saturated and in-your-face consumerist that it's no wonder we're struggling to figure ourselves out. A lot of people need help in making decisions regarding what to buy and what to wear.
Amy Smilovic's comment about MqQueen blazers rubbed me the wrong way, too! I am so sick of oversized, boxy blazers. I'm hourglass shaped, and when I wear oversized blazers I literally feel like a round peg in a square hole.
I do think it's possible to write about women's clothing and the difference the cut and construction can make. I sew clothes for myself, so I spend a lot of time thinking about this. I'd love to read more about it outside of fashion school text books.
I don't mind oversized blazers, as long as they still have a decent fit (I don't like the huge men's vintage ones where the shoulders droop and you could fit another person inside -- except on David Byrne, obviously).
People who sew are a marvel! I've learned a lot from sewing books, even though I am not a sewer myself. If only there was a way to bridge the gap between sewing books and fashion books somehow...
A great point! I am of a similar shape and also have trouble with a lot of pieces Tibi produces - but was under the Tibi haze for a few years. I think we need to accept (I did accept it for myself recently) that it is important how the clothes fit your shape, especially if the shape is further away from a standard model. However, once you start this discussion, it comes very close to the dreaded "flattering", body shape discussion and it becomes a bit tricky to talk about it without going to the deterministic / instructive "pear shape should wear X" discourse
I'm currently rethinking the whole body shape discussion myself. There is a lot in the analytical framework surrounding body shapes that makes a lot of sense, but it's really difficult to approach it without entering the uncomfortable "rules" territory. I'll try to tackle the topic at some point after I'm done with doing research!
I think "flattering" is problematic when it means creating an optical illusion to look taller/slimmer/etc than you actually are. But I'm okay with it when it means clothing that's cut to be harmonious with your specific human shape. Sometimes I think the oversized clothing trend is just designers being lazy about fit.
"the oversized clothing trend is just designers being lazy about fit" -- yes, I can guarantee that it's a huge part of it. When I worked in clothing retail, I was often told by brand representatives that they intentionally created "simple, easy clothes" so that they could fit as many bodies as possible.
So well articulated!! I think I’m about 3 years behind you as I went down a deep Tibi-rabbit-hole last year into this year. It’s only after a few regretful purchases of cargo-style pants or nylon-heavy fabrications that I have had to start asking myself if the Tibi-aesthetic actually fits with my own! It’s difficult when someone else pulls something off so well and the “rules” feel simple enough to follow.
I loved reading your thoughts about the uncomplicated nature of men’s sportswear. Thanks, as always, for a delightful read.
Thank you so much, Kelly! I can totally relate to this: "It’s difficult when someone else pulls something off so well and the “rules” feel simple enough to follow." Absolutely! Especially when the look is accompanied with convincing, logically sound arguments. It's hard to not follow blindly, or to even ask questions.
Yes yes yes to all that you say! I loathe the idea of friction, it’s so safe and boring. Ugh the idea it’s sexy to ‘mix in’ a bit of menswear.
Menswear rocks. As a teen I only ever bought men’s fashion mags (Arena RIP) because I loved the attention to detail and the stories around things. I bought a pair of Randolph Aviators in the early 90s because I read that they were what the pilots wore in The Right Stuff.
I went through an Amy phase but she’s lost me forever with her comments on McQueen’s nipped in, fitted jackets. I only buy fitted jackets these days, on Vestiare mostly.
I think friction can work for some people, but I can't imagine not forcing it myself. I'm probably too much of an overthinker myself to let anything happen naturally!
I love that you've found your style through menswear. Menswear literature is such a treasure trove, not to mention the clothes!
This piece connects so many thoughts for me, I had to take a day to digest it and leave an overly long comment...
Re women vs menswear discourse: I remember falling in love with the menswear universe when I wanted to investigate why one pair of my jeans had a different waistband from others, and I found my answer in menswear forums and well, my mum sews. There was so much knowledge about textiles, construction and fit and the design thinking in these forums, and I learnt so much, plus the trending styles at the time very much aligned with my personal style at the time, which was very prep and classic driven.
I fell out of love a little bit because the downside of all this rigour and detail was that it felt a little exclusive too, especially in the forums about trad style and workwear -- a lot of judgement about the wrong type of material for a sport coat, the wrong type of blazer to wear with jeans. I started feeling like if I didn't buy selvedge denim and Goodyear-welted shoes, I was a moron who didn't know what was "good". I think certain types of menswear can be a little too rules-bound and in many ways just as appearance operated, which is fine until people get rather toxic about it. And other times it felt like Pitti Uomo cosplay --all these guys with pocket squares and monkstraps with wearing string bracelets with their vintage Rolexes to add "friction" to their looks. If not for folks like Derek Guy and Jesse Thorn and Pete Townsend at Put This On, I would have given up on the menswear advice universe completely - they were everything I rarely found in womenswear: practical, non-judgy, and able to share knowledge without making it feel like a rulebook (I found G Bruce Boyer through Put this On!) and realistic about the fact that we can't all afford custom-made stuff. I totally agree that all this is missing when it comes to advice for women...and it's getting harder and harder to experience what is good and share that knowledge because the quality of modern women's clothing is so crap in general. When I took a course in sewing, I also noticed how the older instructors (in their 60s) really hated most of what was sold in shops today in terms of quality, while the younger instructors were like, "oh it's not all that bad". We're losing the ability to tell what's good.
I also wondered whether the menswear discourse had to feel "serious" because it is traditionally taboo for men to seem interested in fashion, and therefore getting "technical" about the details made it safe for men to get interested in style...eg they can talk about jacket lengths "suited" their bodies rather than "flatter" their waistlines. My partner told me that he found it hard to shop because he had no one in real life to talk to about clothes and what worked and what didn't because most men he met could not comfortably discuss these things, unlike the way I would ask my sisters for advice. Perhaps the way fashion and shopping was dismissed as trivial women's activities in the past contributed to the decline of knowledge and quality in womenswear, while menswear was reserved for true "aficionados" which helped to uphold standards?
Re PE: So sorry to hear about your experience, and my experience was largely the same except that I happened to love sports so I was never really singled out for any humiliation...I had to go to high school before I had a PE teacher who showed me that the beauty of sports can be shared and taught in a respectful and welcoming way. Many of my friends were just as traumatised as you were.
I knew that you were going to give me something to think about with this topic! (Well, then again, you always give me a lot to think about, so there is that.)
I haven't gone down the menswear forums rabbit hole myself, but I have heard that some die hard fans of certain styles are very aggressive and judgmental of others, and things get very nasty sometimes. I try to stick to the advice that's available in print. What can I say, I'm old-fashioned!
"We're losing the ability to tell what's good." -- yes, yes, yes. I've been playing with the idea of writing about this in more detail, but I'm afraid that it will just be an angry rant. Expertise is dying. Most consumers don't know anything about fabric quality and clothing construction, but the same is starting to apply to people who produce and sell clothes, too. It's terrifying.
That's a really great point about menswear discourse having developed a more serious / technical tone so that it would become 'acceptable' for men to engage in! It makes sense to me that the menswear standards have survived because the discourse has been allowed and encouraged to "be serious" (if out of necessity). That has certainly not happened with womenswear. We continuously claim that we just want to have "fun" with clothes. I wonder if we'd be happier with our clothes if we thought about them a bit more seriously sometimes? Just thinking out loud here!
Yes it is so true treating clothing and fashion as just a "fun" thing can quickly tip into a lack of respect for how it is made and for the people who make them. Of course clothing is fun and creative but when it creates an "everything is disposable" mentality...well I guess we're seeing the effects of that today in just about every aspect of our lives.
I remember listening to some podcast (I can't remember who) and one of the guests or hosts were saying that women who bought couture in the 1950s and 1960s were much more demanding about what they paid for, because they knew what good looked like - wouldn't it be nice if we were all more demanding as consumers!
this comment is so incredibly thoughtful!! I def think traditional menswear fans tend to lean on the technical to avoid the “frivolity” of seeming to be interested in something that has become a “feminine interest” so to speak. But it does also feel like, maybe partly due to the sheer volume of production for clothing today, that there is a unique value/advantage in that technical knowledge that is missing from a lot of women’s wear fashion writing. I want to know what all your sewing instructors say when I’m shopping haha!! &i really value that Substack has writers like Tiia and you (I love out of the bag!!) who walk such a fine balance between the two without getting too rigid to find the joy in getting dressed :)
Oh my goodness, i would need a whole day just to compile their thoughts on this--they had so much to say from fabric to construction. But the most obvious things that come to find are stitching and seam finishes. If you take a piece of clothing and pull at a seam gently, you can tell whether it's loose or tight by holding it against a light -- a loosely finished garment with a low number of stitches per inch will allow more light through, and it's likely it will fall apart more easily, especially if they used cheap thread. Fabric quality is another one -- thinner fabrics and loose weaves, cloth that hasn't been cut along the grain (this ensures the fabric keeps its shape and hangs well) to cut costs.
You know what, I'll try and interview a proper sewist for a future post!
And agree on technical knowledge -- it really helped me quit shopping at Zara in my late 20s because it was just impossible to look past the crap they were selling us.
I can't remember if I've shared this before, but about ten years ago I spoke to an older woman who worked at a fabric store in the US. She lamented the quality of cotton that they were able to offer for quilting. She told me that in the 1990s the average quilting cotton they sold would have the life expectancy (normal wear and tear) of about 40-50 years, whereas in the 2010s the cotton life expectancy was only ten years due to planned obsolescence. She talked about how quilts were meant to be handed down from generation to generation, and how the tradition would probably die because the fabrics wouldn't last long enough. I think about this conversation often, and it makes me so sad even now.
Ahh i had to share - I am not on instagram so apologies if this account is well-known already (or has some issues I am unaware of!) but I just watched a few of her videos and they were great, informative yet brief, pointing out some things to look for in shops for people without intense technical terminology that might intimidate some younger/newer shoppers! https://www.instagram.com/fond.losangeles/
That is a very interestign account - my superficial instinct was to be turned off by her slightly basic (I know I know I'm awful) styling but she's good! Thank you.
Ahaha I feel you on the shift from being able to shop at fast fashion places when you’re younger to just being annoyed walking around the store looking at poorly constructed garments!! I’d rather spend the same amount of money on a thrifted item that at least stands the test of time and due to construction is usually easier to repair when something does give out. though I don’t have the same amount of free time for the thrift hunt that I did when I was younger 😭just makes me really value when I do have the time now. Would LOVE to read that future post 💯
"there is a unique value/advantage in that technical knowledge that is missing from a lot of women’s wear fashion writing" -- yes, I think this might be at the heart of the matter. When consumers haven't got access to the type of information that would allow them to make smart decisions when buying their clothes, they will not know what they should be expecting of their clothes. And when consumers don't expect anything, the manufacturers will not volunteer to provide anything of value to them either. It's a vicious cycle.
“when consumers don't expect anything, the manufacturers will not volunteer to provide anything of value to them” wow this is so true. Tough to see even bigger/successful brands that try to produce sustainably at scale suffering like Mara hoffman - the clothes are not particularly my style but I value her work so much
I have also been wondering if the obsessive need to juxtapose, create tension, not be one note, etc. is ever going to die down. That said, one of my first fashion memories was being told I am trying too hard to look Seventeen Magazine when I dared to wear a sweatshirt with a skirt to high school. This was about 40 years ago. It seems there is not a single fan of a good style analysis that has not been Tibified for at least a while, myself included of course. Great article that I will reread.
We have been so starved of a theoretical approach to style analysis that we flock to wherever we can find a nugget of wisdom! Tibi Style Class and Allison Bornstein's three-word-method are successful for a reason. We're all just trying to make sense of what the heck to wear and buy.
That was a honest letter, quite filled with frustration (?), but it seems that You definitely found the style esthetics that work for You. I think many people found themselves in the "Tibi" trap a couple of years ago. I have to admit I was influenced too, but never felt being trappen. I'm not a sneaker girl or a person wearing athletic gear in daily life, besides training and sports (I've always been sporting many hours a week, everything from fieldhockey on a professional level to rowing, biking, running and dance, less when getting older now, my body says stop nowadays). The friction You wrote about is very appealing to me, because I like to wear vintage pieces in a modern way and as You've noticed I'm very fond of interpreting runway trends the vintage/secondhand way. I agree it's too easy for influencers to call themselves experts, like a vintage expert eg. But isn't that everywhere atm. You are your own expert? I notice this a lot when meeting patients. They already know (but actually often don't know at all.)
I am most definitely frustrated with the style discourse. I feel that women should have easier access to information that would help them shop smarter, especially in terms of garment construction and textiles. Men get such great advice and we get nothing! Not cool!
I think you are a great example of someone who uses friction successfully in their personal style. You embrace trends and you might even "copy" runway looks, but you always do it with your own perspective in mind. You don't get lost in your clothes, and that's great.
And yes, I think there is a wider "death of expertise" going around, in various disciplines. Everyone is an expert after listening to a podcast episode or watching a YouTube video. I can only imagine how frustrating it must be in your line of work!
Me too. I will confess that there was a time not long ago when I considered unsubscribing, because I took something that she wrote personally. It taught me an awful to to sit with my own feelings, to try to figure out why I reacted so strongly. The thing is, Subrina is very direct, and that's not a quality we easily allow for women to have, especially Black women. We read it as meanness, snarkiness, bitchiness etc, when in fact maybe we might just be internalizing what is being said. Maybe what is being said has nothing to do with us, but we make it about us.
Tiia, I really enjoyed the beginning of the news letter, but the latter part seems to be highly biased and slightly sexist/overly critical of women’s style advice without historical context. Perhaps it’s a bit cultural as well, but in the US men definitely have the same style quizzes (a woman’s romantic v rebel is a man’s gorpcore v e-boy). I think part of the bias is that style has been marketed more towards women for a very long time and men have not been the target of those marketing. Look at how many women’s fashion magazines exist vs men’s (and whatever happened to men’s vogue?) So it’s understandable that if the men’s style market is smaller and perhaps more niche there would be more expertise driven vs the more saturated women’s style market. Also for many years, women/wives shopped for their male partners, sons, etc. My mother took me along on shopping trips for the family, while my brother and dad did whatever. My own father hasn’t been shopping since 2008! I’d say in more modern years I’ve seen the growth of men’s style/fashion becoming more mainstream. With fast fashion’s growth and marketing to men it’s entirely possible that the critiques/issues with the marketing of women’s fashion/style will be mirrored by men’s fashion/style in the next 10 years
I just think that women get a raw deal when it comes to style advice. The context is of course complicated like you pointed out, and you're right that not everything in the menswear sphere is great either. It doesn't change the fact that a lot of style advice aimed at women is simply not very good advice, and it's aimed to keep women shopping all the time.
"With fast fashion’s growth and marketing to men it’s entirely possible that the critiques/issues with the marketing of women’s fashion/style will be mirrored by men’s fashion/style in the next 10 years." -- I think this is likely (and very unfortunate).
Your post makes me think of this notion (highly enabled by the industry) that "men have (style) uniforms, while women have Fashion." The rate of change in men's fashion happens at a glacial pace (if at all, for some pieces) compared to the frenetic pace of women's RTW in the modern fashion age. So it's not surprising that many women who care to build a wardrobe of more enduring pieces end up leaning on many menswear-inflected, tailored pieces to anchor their style.
Personally, I love working in athleisure/sporty elements in my wardrobe but that's because it's a way to incorporate certain other aspects of my life I love (ie: I enjoy fitness, and some sports) into my style. Choosing elements that add 'friction' is a fine personal style strategy, but those elements, as you say, need to actually meaningfully resonate for you on a personal level. Otherwise it just becomes a chaotic grab-bag of dissociative elements instead of a cohesive personal style.
This: "men have (style) uniforms, while women have Fashion." This, this, this. Menswear really does change very, very slowly. It must be easier to keep up with, and also probably easier to write about. I was trying to imagine what an ideal essay on, say, buying a dress would look like, in the genre that Bruce Boyer excels at. There'd be so much ground to cover to even scratch the surface! The items typically associated with menswear, with all of their staying power and long history, should be easier to dissect and analyze compared to the ever-changing, constantly evolving womenswear. I think it sucks though! Women, too, need better information in order to make good decisions when we buy our clothes.
It makes perfect sense that you incorporate athleisure into your personal style. I love that. It's a part of you, so it works for you. Win-win!
I've written about the quality issue re women's fashion periodically over the years on my old blog, and honestly the consensus, every time, is that it's a mess out there.
Agreed. Quality is a minefield of a topic!
Thank you thank you for the meaty piece; as the best writing does, you provoke so much thought.
At 53, I feel I am JUST figuring out a style that's instinctive to me. I use a lot of crutches and formulas and sayings and readings to spur what I lack naturally ... but more and more, I know when it feels good or doesn't and how to remedy that for myself. More and more that is a physical, body feeling; it's that powerful and true. A full body yes and generally a pesky unignorable little no, like a pebble in a shoe.
I will say that there's something much worse for me than they way women's style gets discussed versus men's. And worse than the feeling of ignoring our inner loves under the influence of a persuasive whatever/whoever of the moment. And that is the point you get at about how style world seems unable to have a discussion without judgement.
I think about my niece making herself a snack as a few of us looked on, I think her brother who was appalled by the glop of it all. And her saying "don't yuck my yum."
That's the part that kills me. Why are we yucking each other's yum? I love Subrina's writing too and am in awe of her knowledge but I had to unsubscribe because of the "I know betterness" of it, the "this is bad; this is good" sensibility inherent in the title "Are you wearing that?" -- it all distracted me from her endless well of knowledge. I feel style is subjective. That there is no ascertainable "good" or "bad." We are compelled to ascribe these terms and to "other" -- often out of some kind of fear or insecurity. Even this idea that "knowing your inherent self" = style. Why is being fixed more desirable than evolving?
This notion of hating sportswear and the memories it recalls is so very relatable. I still look back at points in my growing up life when I could easily have been more kind. More myself. The best part of adulthood is a grownup landscape of friendships that values different things -- and my ability to decide I'll tolerate nothing less. Fashion is so much, and for me it's solace and escape and joy ... as you shed sportswear, what I feel growing in my "style world" is a constant shedding of those who just can't refrain from yucking each others' yum, those who can't seem to add to a discourse meaningfully without first whipping a dodgeball, hard, across the gymnasium.
Thank you for giving me so much to think about, as you always do, Rachel!
Full body yes -- yes! It's like with good friends or partners. When you know, you know. At that point, it doesn't matter what anyone else says, you can go with your gut because you know it's right.
The yucking on the yum issue: I agree we should be able to voice our opinions without being overly mean or snarky. We should be able to formulate our arguments with politeness, without putting ourselves on a pedestal at the expense of others. We're grown-ups, after all! I guess the fashion industry is known for its yuckers. Karl Lagerfeld comes to mind. He went on saying awful things for decades about other people and it was just something that the fashion industry accepted. It was on brand, which is really disturbing. I honestly don't know why the fashion world is like this. I'm still trying to figure it out. I applaud you for standing up for what's right for you and establishing your boundaries.
I agree that there are a lot of aspects of style that are subjective. What looks and feels "good" is most certainly subjective. Things like garment and textile quality, construction and intended fit are not subjective though, and wish it was easier to find information about these things in womenswear style discourse! For example: it really bothers me when some very popular style influencers talk about garment quality on the basis of the material composition tag, like "it's 100% wool so it's great quality / value for money". But there are so many different types of 100% wool out there! Some of it is of sublime quality and some of it is total garbage, but if you don't know the difference, you just don't know. I don't want to sound like I'm gate-keeping because I do believe everyone should have the freedom to discuss these things, but some of these topics are complicated, they require expertise, and a lot of people simply don't have the knowledge to back up their claims. Not always, there are exceptions of course. But I digress. Overall I agree that there are an awful lot of things about the world of style that are subjective and up for grabs for anyone who wants to tackle them!
YES! And those matters of material quality and seaming, production, etc... those are objective, I agree! I would probably refer to you on those ;-)
I had to unsubscribe to Sabrina as well. Her commentary at times was completely unacceptable. Have not missed it since.
I respect anyone's decision to establish their boundaries. It's tough out there, and if someone's rhetoric is not acceptable to you, then it's always better to opt out.
Some weeks ago I felt very triggered by something that Subrina said in her Notes, and I got really angry and considered unsubscribing. Then I thought long and hard about what she had said and realized that she had been right. I eventually reached out to her and it turns out that she's a lovely person and I've had some very fruitful conversations with her since. She is opinionated, that's for sure, and I get that it rubs people the wrong way, just like Amy, Rachel Tashjian, Eugene Rabkin, and other opinionated people who sometimes come off as snarky, do.
I've been thinking about this topic a lot, meaning: style that exists within a logical and consistent framework specific to -a person-, not a framework dictated by a designer or anyone else.
My style is absolutely consistent, and has been since the late 80s. I rotate different silhouettes in and out, and pay attention to trends (I sample the things that work, only), but I'm not ruled by them.
I also followed Amy Smilovic for a bit, during the pandemic. I like that she's figured out her own framework, and has exposed it as the logic that drives her work for Tibi. Like you, I didn't find that her framework was my framework. The "three words" thing doesn't work for me at all, and "chill" means something quite different to me than it does to her (and forget "friction," I prefer "harmony"). And that's fine.
There's real strength in figuring out what your own style is and what works for you. I believe that it's within that framework that you're able to take on trends and change silhouettes. It just makes sense! I congratulate you for having found your style a long time ago. What a treasure that must be! I can only imagine the possibilities, but maybe I'll get there, too, one day.
I’m a relatively recent lurker in your wonderful space and relatively new to 2020s era style and fashion platforms/writing/influencing (since discovering an urge to rediscover my personal style last year, which had been lost somewhere in the convenience of athleisure fabrics while living in the tropics). You articulate a lot of question marks that have been on my mind over the last few months, like why is Tibi style class treated as gospel when I feel some of what is said is pretty judgmental and condescending 🫣 (she says in trepidation). Meanwhile the clothes are predominantly highly priced synthetic blends, and while there is so much written about quality, no one mentions this? Not to yuck on Tibi, I guess what your writing made me realize is that following all this “informed” fashion discourse has maybe driven me away from my own style as well. Again, thank you for this and your always frank writing, I really appreciate it.
Hello and welcome! I'm glad you're here and happy that you left a comment!
I've wondered about Tibi's textile choices myself. I've only ever seen older Tibi pieces in person so I have no idea how the newer clothes measure up to quality standards. The old ones I've seen in person were well made and the materials seemed nice (they were silk and cotton pieces). Sometimes using synthetics makes sense (desired feel, mood, texture) but I feel conflicted about the price point and the difficulty in deciphering odd made-up names they give to materials ('chalky drape' comes to mind -- I felt like I had to jump through hoops to find out what it was made of).
Even more disturbing to me is that in this day and age, the Tibi website has no information about the brand's sustainability practices or goals (or if they do, it's practically impossible to find them). Where are the clothes made? What types of factories? Who monitors these factories, do people get paid a living wage, are there certificates that prove this? Where are the textiles sourced? What type of carbon footprint do they have, are the materials traceable? So many questions!
Thank you for the warm welcome! I agree on the lack of information on sustainability practices - it especially seems out of sync for a brand that is so innovative in their direct communication with customers, and seems to be trying to project a “principled” ethos (I’m thinking of when Amy addresses the business side of fashion and encourages supporting local retailers).
On textiles - I’ve only recently bought my first Tibi item in their “crispy nylon” fabrication on sale and I wasn’t impressed, but I felt that my expectations were appropriately set to expect a synthetic fiber for a certain appearance. What bothers me is that they have fabrications with names like “tropical wool” that are over 50% polyester.
Maybe it’s the lack of choices women have, as you point out, that has us overlooking these things to have a brand speaking to us in a thoughtful way.
It's surprising to me that Tibi's "tropical wool" pieces are so polyester-heavy, I had no idea. I don't mind a small polyester content in wool, but over 50% is completely unnecessary.
Truly! Just popped back in here because this post and the comments has been living rent free in my mind for the last few days. I’ve rediscovered getting dressed without trying to think of “irony” and it feels good. Off to check out the other posts / writers you linked now!
Oh god this is a great piece of thinking and writing, thank you! So much resonated for me. Yep, hate most athleisure but have tried to incorporate it in my wardrobe to feel more modern, check. Traumatised by school PE, check. Have succumbed to persuasive fashion influences that do not actually reflect what I like, check. Discovered menswear writing and it’s a ‘where have you been all my life!’ moment. Hilariously, too much dedication to ‘Put This On’ style guides led to a further rabbit hole of buying into a style that was not actually me…. But we’re over that now and I’m back on board with accepting my fate as someone who just really really likes black architectural clothing and looking way more formal than most everyone around me. I’ve liked the look since I was teenager so i’m pretty sure it’s going to persist.
"accepting my fate as someone who just really really likes [...] looking way more formal than most everyone around me" -- check! Thank you for reading! I'm so glad this resonated with you.
Everything you said check
Ahhh this was such a fantastic read - you have really become one of my favorite Substack authors in the last few months. Regularly think about your writing on the experience of wearing an antique skirt 💗💗 I am not a friction girl, I am glad for everyone else who it works (I pin the looks often hahah) but I feel so silly when I try it & inevitable switch back to the “frictionless” shoes or shirt every time hahaha. I love the tibi look but I have yet to purchase (secondhand bcs that’s ny budget) bcs I don’t love the materials they seem to use. I love natural fibers, they make my heart happy, and I can appreciate the technical construction and materials tibi celebrates and not have to wear/own them! This is the best part of aging for me, getting to know what is actually me underneath all the layers of outside influence.
Thank you so much for the lovely feedback! I really appreciate it!
"This is the best part of aging for me, getting to know what is actually me underneath all the layers of outside influence." -- I can relate. The older I get, the more I feel like I can let go of other people's expectations and what I should be wearing. I'm starting to trust myself that I know what works for me and that's enough. I still have a lot to learn though!
I haven't seen any recent Tibi pieces in person (I've only seen older ones that were quite nice) but looking at their website the fabric compositions puzzle me often. (Mixing silk and nylon just sounds so wrong to me.) I don't think all synthetics are unacceptable, but too much is too much.
Ah…I am so over athleisure! Like you, sports stuff repels me (PE was my worst subject in school too!) but I think it’s the widely adopted “uniform” nature of it that bugs me. In other words, if someone loved it and was rocking it, I would be like, cool! But because every third person is wearing leggings and a cropped top, I am like UGH, what happened to New York??
Menswear! I guess I am torn. On the one hand, I love the quality, the depth of detail, the timelessness. Love going with my husband to his tailor in Italy. On the other hand, Yikes…so few core options—shirt, pants, jacket. I know, I know, the details but still. I love that we can wear leopard, and metallics and dresses and skirts and pants, shirts, jackets. So I guess the trade off is for all that variety we get screwed on quality. Hmm. Why can’t we have some occasional variety but still have timelessness quality underpinning it all? I guess that is what Celine/Phoebe was/is about…? Others as well.
It’s funny to consider the blast radius of the Tibi style classes. I started following Amy years before the pandemic on Instagram and loved her style and thought she wrote the best fashion copy. Then when the classes started, it seemed like while they were infomercials, they were experimenting with many styling techniques which kept it fresh. But after that first season, I have not been able to watch one for so long. It’s like an ad in slow-mo….!
"the trade off is for all that variety we get screwed on quality" -- yes, I think that's it. Very unfortunate and not cool. It will be interesting to see what happens to menswear discourse as men's core options are widening and more adventurous styles become available for men. Derek Guy was a guest at Eugene Rabkin's podcast recently and he lamented the death of menswear style forums and the general state of men's fashion. So perhaps the great discourse of menswear is on its way out, which would be a real shame.
The success of Tibi Style Class and Allison Bornstein's three-word method really point out the dire need of a theoretical framework to discuss personal style. I think we all crave it, so that we can make sense of all of these options. The fashion/clothing industry is so over-saturated and in-your-face consumerist that it's no wonder we're struggling to figure ourselves out. A lot of people need help in making decisions regarding what to buy and what to wear.
Amy Smilovic's comment about MqQueen blazers rubbed me the wrong way, too! I am so sick of oversized, boxy blazers. I'm hourglass shaped, and when I wear oversized blazers I literally feel like a round peg in a square hole.
I do think it's possible to write about women's clothing and the difference the cut and construction can make. I sew clothes for myself, so I spend a lot of time thinking about this. I'd love to read more about it outside of fashion school text books.
I don't mind oversized blazers, as long as they still have a decent fit (I don't like the huge men's vintage ones where the shoulders droop and you could fit another person inside -- except on David Byrne, obviously).
People who sew are a marvel! I've learned a lot from sewing books, even though I am not a sewer myself. If only there was a way to bridge the gap between sewing books and fashion books somehow...
A great point! I am of a similar shape and also have trouble with a lot of pieces Tibi produces - but was under the Tibi haze for a few years. I think we need to accept (I did accept it for myself recently) that it is important how the clothes fit your shape, especially if the shape is further away from a standard model. However, once you start this discussion, it comes very close to the dreaded "flattering", body shape discussion and it becomes a bit tricky to talk about it without going to the deterministic / instructive "pear shape should wear X" discourse
I'm currently rethinking the whole body shape discussion myself. There is a lot in the analytical framework surrounding body shapes that makes a lot of sense, but it's really difficult to approach it without entering the uncomfortable "rules" territory. I'll try to tackle the topic at some point after I'm done with doing research!
Looking forward to your thoughts!
I think "flattering" is problematic when it means creating an optical illusion to look taller/slimmer/etc than you actually are. But I'm okay with it when it means clothing that's cut to be harmonious with your specific human shape. Sometimes I think the oversized clothing trend is just designers being lazy about fit.
"the oversized clothing trend is just designers being lazy about fit" -- yes, I can guarantee that it's a huge part of it. When I worked in clothing retail, I was often told by brand representatives that they intentionally created "simple, easy clothes" so that they could fit as many bodies as possible.
So well articulated!! I think I’m about 3 years behind you as I went down a deep Tibi-rabbit-hole last year into this year. It’s only after a few regretful purchases of cargo-style pants or nylon-heavy fabrications that I have had to start asking myself if the Tibi-aesthetic actually fits with my own! It’s difficult when someone else pulls something off so well and the “rules” feel simple enough to follow.
I loved reading your thoughts about the uncomplicated nature of men’s sportswear. Thanks, as always, for a delightful read.
Thank you so much, Kelly! I can totally relate to this: "It’s difficult when someone else pulls something off so well and the “rules” feel simple enough to follow." Absolutely! Especially when the look is accompanied with convincing, logically sound arguments. It's hard to not follow blindly, or to even ask questions.
Yes yes yes to all that you say! I loathe the idea of friction, it’s so safe and boring. Ugh the idea it’s sexy to ‘mix in’ a bit of menswear.
Menswear rocks. As a teen I only ever bought men’s fashion mags (Arena RIP) because I loved the attention to detail and the stories around things. I bought a pair of Randolph Aviators in the early 90s because I read that they were what the pilots wore in The Right Stuff.
I went through an Amy phase but she’s lost me forever with her comments on McQueen’s nipped in, fitted jackets. I only buy fitted jackets these days, on Vestiare mostly.
I think friction can work for some people, but I can't imagine not forcing it myself. I'm probably too much of an overthinker myself to let anything happen naturally!
I love that you've found your style through menswear. Menswear literature is such a treasure trove, not to mention the clothes!
This piece connects so many thoughts for me, I had to take a day to digest it and leave an overly long comment...
Re women vs menswear discourse: I remember falling in love with the menswear universe when I wanted to investigate why one pair of my jeans had a different waistband from others, and I found my answer in menswear forums and well, my mum sews. There was so much knowledge about textiles, construction and fit and the design thinking in these forums, and I learnt so much, plus the trending styles at the time very much aligned with my personal style at the time, which was very prep and classic driven.
I fell out of love a little bit because the downside of all this rigour and detail was that it felt a little exclusive too, especially in the forums about trad style and workwear -- a lot of judgement about the wrong type of material for a sport coat, the wrong type of blazer to wear with jeans. I started feeling like if I didn't buy selvedge denim and Goodyear-welted shoes, I was a moron who didn't know what was "good". I think certain types of menswear can be a little too rules-bound and in many ways just as appearance operated, which is fine until people get rather toxic about it. And other times it felt like Pitti Uomo cosplay --all these guys with pocket squares and monkstraps with wearing string bracelets with their vintage Rolexes to add "friction" to their looks. If not for folks like Derek Guy and Jesse Thorn and Pete Townsend at Put This On, I would have given up on the menswear advice universe completely - they were everything I rarely found in womenswear: practical, non-judgy, and able to share knowledge without making it feel like a rulebook (I found G Bruce Boyer through Put this On!) and realistic about the fact that we can't all afford custom-made stuff. I totally agree that all this is missing when it comes to advice for women...and it's getting harder and harder to experience what is good and share that knowledge because the quality of modern women's clothing is so crap in general. When I took a course in sewing, I also noticed how the older instructors (in their 60s) really hated most of what was sold in shops today in terms of quality, while the younger instructors were like, "oh it's not all that bad". We're losing the ability to tell what's good.
I also wondered whether the menswear discourse had to feel "serious" because it is traditionally taboo for men to seem interested in fashion, and therefore getting "technical" about the details made it safe for men to get interested in style...eg they can talk about jacket lengths "suited" their bodies rather than "flatter" their waistlines. My partner told me that he found it hard to shop because he had no one in real life to talk to about clothes and what worked and what didn't because most men he met could not comfortably discuss these things, unlike the way I would ask my sisters for advice. Perhaps the way fashion and shopping was dismissed as trivial women's activities in the past contributed to the decline of knowledge and quality in womenswear, while menswear was reserved for true "aficionados" which helped to uphold standards?
Re PE: So sorry to hear about your experience, and my experience was largely the same except that I happened to love sports so I was never really singled out for any humiliation...I had to go to high school before I had a PE teacher who showed me that the beauty of sports can be shared and taught in a respectful and welcoming way. Many of my friends were just as traumatised as you were.
I knew that you were going to give me something to think about with this topic! (Well, then again, you always give me a lot to think about, so there is that.)
I haven't gone down the menswear forums rabbit hole myself, but I have heard that some die hard fans of certain styles are very aggressive and judgmental of others, and things get very nasty sometimes. I try to stick to the advice that's available in print. What can I say, I'm old-fashioned!
"We're losing the ability to tell what's good." -- yes, yes, yes. I've been playing with the idea of writing about this in more detail, but I'm afraid that it will just be an angry rant. Expertise is dying. Most consumers don't know anything about fabric quality and clothing construction, but the same is starting to apply to people who produce and sell clothes, too. It's terrifying.
That's a really great point about menswear discourse having developed a more serious / technical tone so that it would become 'acceptable' for men to engage in! It makes sense to me that the menswear standards have survived because the discourse has been allowed and encouraged to "be serious" (if out of necessity). That has certainly not happened with womenswear. We continuously claim that we just want to have "fun" with clothes. I wonder if we'd be happier with our clothes if we thought about them a bit more seriously sometimes? Just thinking out loud here!
Yes it is so true treating clothing and fashion as just a "fun" thing can quickly tip into a lack of respect for how it is made and for the people who make them. Of course clothing is fun and creative but when it creates an "everything is disposable" mentality...well I guess we're seeing the effects of that today in just about every aspect of our lives.
I remember listening to some podcast (I can't remember who) and one of the guests or hosts were saying that women who bought couture in the 1950s and 1960s were much more demanding about what they paid for, because they knew what good looked like - wouldn't it be nice if we were all more demanding as consumers!
this comment is so incredibly thoughtful!! I def think traditional menswear fans tend to lean on the technical to avoid the “frivolity” of seeming to be interested in something that has become a “feminine interest” so to speak. But it does also feel like, maybe partly due to the sheer volume of production for clothing today, that there is a unique value/advantage in that technical knowledge that is missing from a lot of women’s wear fashion writing. I want to know what all your sewing instructors say when I’m shopping haha!! &i really value that Substack has writers like Tiia and you (I love out of the bag!!) who walk such a fine balance between the two without getting too rigid to find the joy in getting dressed :)
Oh my goodness, i would need a whole day just to compile their thoughts on this--they had so much to say from fabric to construction. But the most obvious things that come to find are stitching and seam finishes. If you take a piece of clothing and pull at a seam gently, you can tell whether it's loose or tight by holding it against a light -- a loosely finished garment with a low number of stitches per inch will allow more light through, and it's likely it will fall apart more easily, especially if they used cheap thread. Fabric quality is another one -- thinner fabrics and loose weaves, cloth that hasn't been cut along the grain (this ensures the fabric keeps its shape and hangs well) to cut costs.
You know what, I'll try and interview a proper sewist for a future post!
And agree on technical knowledge -- it really helped me quit shopping at Zara in my late 20s because it was just impossible to look past the crap they were selling us.
I can't remember if I've shared this before, but about ten years ago I spoke to an older woman who worked at a fabric store in the US. She lamented the quality of cotton that they were able to offer for quilting. She told me that in the 1990s the average quilting cotton they sold would have the life expectancy (normal wear and tear) of about 40-50 years, whereas in the 2010s the cotton life expectancy was only ten years due to planned obsolescence. She talked about how quilts were meant to be handed down from generation to generation, and how the tradition would probably die because the fabrics wouldn't last long enough. I think about this conversation often, and it makes me so sad even now.
Ahh i had to share - I am not on instagram so apologies if this account is well-known already (or has some issues I am unaware of!) but I just watched a few of her videos and they were great, informative yet brief, pointing out some things to look for in shops for people without intense technical terminology that might intimidate some younger/newer shoppers! https://www.instagram.com/fond.losangeles/
That is a very interestign account - my superficial instinct was to be turned off by her slightly basic (I know I know I'm awful) styling but she's good! Thank you.
Oooh that looks like a great account, will save it for the weekend for a deep dive. Thanks for the rec!
Ahaha I feel you on the shift from being able to shop at fast fashion places when you’re younger to just being annoyed walking around the store looking at poorly constructed garments!! I’d rather spend the same amount of money on a thrifted item that at least stands the test of time and due to construction is usually easier to repair when something does give out. though I don’t have the same amount of free time for the thrift hunt that I did when I was younger 😭just makes me really value when I do have the time now. Would LOVE to read that future post 💯
"there is a unique value/advantage in that technical knowledge that is missing from a lot of women’s wear fashion writing" -- yes, I think this might be at the heart of the matter. When consumers haven't got access to the type of information that would allow them to make smart decisions when buying their clothes, they will not know what they should be expecting of their clothes. And when consumers don't expect anything, the manufacturers will not volunteer to provide anything of value to them either. It's a vicious cycle.
“when consumers don't expect anything, the manufacturers will not volunteer to provide anything of value to them” wow this is so true. Tough to see even bigger/successful brands that try to produce sustainably at scale suffering like Mara hoffman - the clothes are not particularly my style but I value her work so much
I still stupidly get carried away and disobey mine. “But Marant wedge trainers aren’t trainer trainers.” Yup, they are.
Hahahahaha! Ah, the things we tell ourselves sometimes!
I have also been wondering if the obsessive need to juxtapose, create tension, not be one note, etc. is ever going to die down. That said, one of my first fashion memories was being told I am trying too hard to look Seventeen Magazine when I dared to wear a sweatshirt with a skirt to high school. This was about 40 years ago. It seems there is not a single fan of a good style analysis that has not been Tibified for at least a while, myself included of course. Great article that I will reread.
Thanks Jaime! I'm glad this resonated with you.
We have been so starved of a theoretical approach to style analysis that we flock to wherever we can find a nugget of wisdom! Tibi Style Class and Allison Bornstein's three-word-method are successful for a reason. We're all just trying to make sense of what the heck to wear and buy.
That was a honest letter, quite filled with frustration (?), but it seems that You definitely found the style esthetics that work for You. I think many people found themselves in the "Tibi" trap a couple of years ago. I have to admit I was influenced too, but never felt being trappen. I'm not a sneaker girl or a person wearing athletic gear in daily life, besides training and sports (I've always been sporting many hours a week, everything from fieldhockey on a professional level to rowing, biking, running and dance, less when getting older now, my body says stop nowadays). The friction You wrote about is very appealing to me, because I like to wear vintage pieces in a modern way and as You've noticed I'm very fond of interpreting runway trends the vintage/secondhand way. I agree it's too easy for influencers to call themselves experts, like a vintage expert eg. But isn't that everywhere atm. You are your own expert? I notice this a lot when meeting patients. They already know (but actually often don't know at all.)
I am most definitely frustrated with the style discourse. I feel that women should have easier access to information that would help them shop smarter, especially in terms of garment construction and textiles. Men get such great advice and we get nothing! Not cool!
I think you are a great example of someone who uses friction successfully in their personal style. You embrace trends and you might even "copy" runway looks, but you always do it with your own perspective in mind. You don't get lost in your clothes, and that's great.
And yes, I think there is a wider "death of expertise" going around, in various disciplines. Everyone is an expert after listening to a podcast episode or watching a YouTube video. I can only imagine how frustrating it must be in your line of work!
+1 @Missmatch10 you have great style, that is personal and unique. So refreshing to see your posts, so thank you!
I really love Subrina's newsletter as well.
Me too. I will confess that there was a time not long ago when I considered unsubscribing, because I took something that she wrote personally. It taught me an awful to to sit with my own feelings, to try to figure out why I reacted so strongly. The thing is, Subrina is very direct, and that's not a quality we easily allow for women to have, especially Black women. We read it as meanness, snarkiness, bitchiness etc, when in fact maybe we might just be internalizing what is being said. Maybe what is being said has nothing to do with us, but we make it about us.
Tiia, I really enjoyed the beginning of the news letter, but the latter part seems to be highly biased and slightly sexist/overly critical of women’s style advice without historical context. Perhaps it’s a bit cultural as well, but in the US men definitely have the same style quizzes (a woman’s romantic v rebel is a man’s gorpcore v e-boy). I think part of the bias is that style has been marketed more towards women for a very long time and men have not been the target of those marketing. Look at how many women’s fashion magazines exist vs men’s (and whatever happened to men’s vogue?) So it’s understandable that if the men’s style market is smaller and perhaps more niche there would be more expertise driven vs the more saturated women’s style market. Also for many years, women/wives shopped for their male partners, sons, etc. My mother took me along on shopping trips for the family, while my brother and dad did whatever. My own father hasn’t been shopping since 2008! I’d say in more modern years I’ve seen the growth of men’s style/fashion becoming more mainstream. With fast fashion’s growth and marketing to men it’s entirely possible that the critiques/issues with the marketing of women’s fashion/style will be mirrored by men’s fashion/style in the next 10 years
I just think that women get a raw deal when it comes to style advice. The context is of course complicated like you pointed out, and you're right that not everything in the menswear sphere is great either. It doesn't change the fact that a lot of style advice aimed at women is simply not very good advice, and it's aimed to keep women shopping all the time.
"With fast fashion’s growth and marketing to men it’s entirely possible that the critiques/issues with the marketing of women’s fashion/style will be mirrored by men’s fashion/style in the next 10 years." -- I think this is likely (and very unfortunate).